We've got the summertime blues as 2 or 3 participants have had to drop out of our upcoming workshops for various reasons. But there are alsogreens, yellows and reds in abundance all around us! Yes, the temperatures in south west France have moved up to the 30s most days now, the gardens are at their colourful peak and when we're not enjoying regular dips in the salt-water pools to cool off we're learning a little bit more about the arty craft of darning......
We all know how technological advances have engaged us in constant fast-forward motion making life overscheduled, stressed and hurtling towards the next task, whether at work or at home. We mostly rush our food, our family time and even our recreation. If, like us, you can make space to sit in the shade for a few moments we'd like to pass on a little information about the slow art of hand-darning as a method of repair, embellishment, and a means of prolonging the life of a garment for economic or sentimental reasons. Darning offers the stitcher an opportunity to slow down; the hand moving the needle into and then out of the fabric in a soothing, rhythmic pattern offering simultaneously a quiet time to unwind and a meditative recharging of the spirit whilst producing something useful yet beautiful.
Traditionally, darning is often employed where patching is impractical or would create discomfort for the wearer, such as on the heel of a sock, cardigan elbow or trouser knee. It generally employs a simple running stitch "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving and But simple over-and-under weaving of threads can be replaced by various fancy weaves, such as twills, chevrons, etc., achieved by skipping threads in regular patterns. The length of the stitches are often varied to produce geometric designs.Though the skill and techniques of darning and pattern darning are essentially the same, the line between them holds significance in the intention of the maker. Is this pattern being used to repair and extend the life of the garment, emphasise its historical use or simply to enhance and embellish the piece; possibly all three?
Since the original purpose was to reinforce weakened fabric or replace areas where the fabric had been ripped or disintegrated it was usual to match the repair threads as closely to the fabric as possible and if the fabric had a pattern, it was necessary to find suitable replacements for all the colours. Many sewing baskets contained scraps of fabric that could be unraveled and threads reused. The repair was worked from the topside where fabric remained, and rewoven where it was completely gone.
Our knowledge of pattern darning originates from textiles from Egypt dating to the 11th century. Traditional embroidery using pattern darning is found in Africa, Japan, Northern and Eastern Europe, the Middle East, Mexico and Peru and designs for pattern darning seem to be carried forward from generation to generation. Current darning methods are remarkably similar to the much older Egyptian designs. The skill is believed to have moved north along trade routes and is called skakkaglit in Iceland where it appears on altar cloths, bed linens and curtains. In this stitching, we start to see wool thread being used on linen and church inventories mention skakkaglit as an adornment.
Sashiko has been used in Japan for centuries for the continued reuse old clothing and is most famously visible on theirBoro clothing(should you ever find yourself with some spare time in Tokyo, we highly recommend a visit to the Amuse Museumwhere you will find an amazing private collection of Boro garments). Starting with a couple of layers of old cloth, a new layer of fabric was added on top using tiny stitches. Sashiko means "little stabs" and resembles grains of rice. Traditionally the thread was white and the fabric indigo blue. Several styles of sashiko developed over time but the most basic pattern is called Moyozashi. This pattern is very geometric with straight or curved lines. The main difference with this type is that the lines do not cross. There should be a tiny bit of fabric showing between the stitches. If the geometric design does meet and cross, then the style is called Hitomezashi. The more colorful version is Nanbu. Kogin is also a derivative of Hiteomezashi but it follows the weave of the fabric and the stitch extends up to five threads in length with fabric threads showing between the stitches.
Our 5-Day workshop, KNITTING, DARNING & MENDING,this September, is to be led by Celia Pym,currently enjoying a UK Craft Residency at Cove Park, Scotland, who has travelled widely in Japan studying their darning, knitting and stitching techniques since completing her degree at Harvard University. For many years Celia has been the enthusiastic, leading light in the art and craft of "Visible Mending", it's history and value in the household which combines the skill and philosophies of textile repair. A small hole in a sweater might be darned with a matching yarn for practical purposes, but "Visible Mending" combines the utilitarian with the decorative by choosing contrasting colours and perhaps a different weight of yarn, maybe adding pattern and picture to the work. This visible mend brings frugality, design and frivolity into one place, literally stitching history into our daily lives as clothing and household linens sprout small testaments to a lineage of stitching as an essential skill in the human story.
Several places have recently become available on bothCelia Pym's Knitting, Darning and Mendingworkshop, 21st to 27th September - a hands-on adventure learning beautiful traditional methods to repair - as well as a couple at Claire Wellesley Smith's Weekendevent from 7th to 10th October. We'll be writing more about Claire's exquisite work and teaching methods in our next newsletter, but if you can step in and book a placeat either event before the middle of August, we can offer a 10% discount as late-comers.
And just a little reminder that we still have tickets for the incredibleGigspannerconcert the weekend before Celia Pym's workshop, (www know this because Gigspanner have performed here twice before!). So if the idea of some first class music, followed by a few days of quiet B&B accommodation in an amazing location, before moving into the world of stitches,we'd be happy to sort it out for you.Bring your partner and we'll give you a special rate.
Summer should be upon us, but we, like most of Europe are in the doldrums. Not just because the sun isn't shining as much as we'd like, but also because of the unsettled times ahead. For the time being however lets pretend it's business as usual. We are half way through our 2016 workshops (our last was another super Silver Yoga led by our flexible soeur , Lizi Bolton), and with a quiet couple of months in store we are looking forward to Celia Pym's Knitting, Darning and Mendingfrom the 21st-27th September.
Celia Pym is a leading London-based artist, knitter and darner specialising in visible repairs - she quite literally celebrates 'wear and tear.' “I love seeing damage and holes,” Celia says. “Making mending invisible doesn’t make sense to me: things happen, stuff changes, holes appear. Let the darning grow into the old bit so that the garment can be seen to change and age.” Having trained as an artist with a background in sculpture, she learnt embroidery, tapestry, silk painting and other textile techniques as a teenager. “I use textiles because I love the way they feel,” she says. “I love the repetitive processes involved, the way colour works, and that colour can be a thing, a line of yarn, a block of cross-stitch, a ball of wool. I also use textiles because they lend themselves to pattern making: in the construction of knit or cross-stitch or darning, there are grids and rows that link together, and you have to teach your hands to relax, to settle, to lead the making."
Celia has exhibited at the Royal College of Art in London and beyond, but it was an old jumper originally belonging to her great-uncle that sparked Celia’s interest in repairs and darning. “I was overwhelmed by the care invested by my aunt in mending his sweaters, and the way the different bits of mending looked together, how the holes gave clues as to how the sweater was used.”
If you share Celia's passion for much used and loved clothing and textiles, we still have a couple of places available on her workshop and we would be delighted if you could join us at what is a particularly beautiful time of year for these parts. With the kids' holidays over, fares cheaper and the general atmosphere much more relaxed and inspirational whilst still buzzing with brocantes and marchésit's the perfect time of year.
For those of you visiting from afarwho can squeeze in a few more extra days, we are hosting another wonderful Gigspanner Concerton Friday, 18th September, just days before Celia's workshop. Staying here you will have an opportunity to meet and mingle with Steeleye Span's fiddler, Peter Knight, his musicians Roger Flack and Vincent Salzfaas. Bring a partner and we'll give you a special deal. For more information we recommend you take a minute to watch the video below to the very end - it just gets better and better. Gigspanner were invited by BBC Radio 3 to perform at the Shakespeare 400 Celebrations in Stratford-upon-Avon as part of the ‘Shakespeare and Music’ concert, highlighting Peter's virtuoso fiddling as well as the superb guitar work and Afro-percussion from Roger and Vincent. Tickets can be bought on-line below.
5 things to check out this month:
UK's Craft Magazine is celebrating its Summer Issue with drinks, music and craft show in Central London next week. Emailto accept invitation.
Keep an eye on one of our favourite online shops for vintage European goodies, Dee Puddy.
The Festival of Quilts, 11th - 14th August, NEC, Birmingham, England is still a month away, but you can buy tickets online now. There will be over 300 exhibitors offering essential supplies, international artists/crafters and a display of over 700 competition quilts. Advertised as the ultimate quilting experience.
Thanks to our current favourite knitting workshop leader, Åsa Soderman, I have finally found the gorgeous navy blue cashmere yarn I have been searching for many a year! It comes from a Belgium company, Pascuali and I can't wait to start on my next knitting project. This yarn comes in half a dozen other great colours, and I have marked their Alpaca Fino, 100% alpaca wool for something a tad more wintery.
With changes on the horizon, for everyone including Les Soeurs Anglaises, we are planning a really special project for next year (our 10th Anniversary) with Toy Maker extraordinaire, Robert Race. We're not going to say too much at this stage, but if your curiosity has been tweaked let us know and we'll keep you to the minute with developments.
Weddings these days need to planned months, if not years, ahead so if you (or someone you
know) hasn't yet chosen the perfect venue, our wonderful studio space and accommodation might be just the ticket. Another soeur, Carol Temple, of Simply French Weddings recently organised and supervised another wedding celebration at Les Soeurs Anglaises and feedback has confirmed what we have long believed…..that it is the perfect venue for a smaller, more intimate celebration (40-90 guests) offering stylish celebration space and accommodation; and with Simply French Weddings taking all the stress and strain out of what can easily become a demanding and tense occasion, what’s not to like?
In October we are joining forces to offer a long weekend to couples so that they can experience the comfort and beauty of LSA's venue, whilst familiarising themselves with the superb and friendly services that SFW offer (styling, taster menus, champagne & wine tastings, hairdresser, make-up artist, photographer, music, etc.). Included in the price of the B&B weekend we’ll also be providing a short taster workshop for DIY wedding favours and decorations. And should a couple decide to hold their Big Day here, the weekend B&B charges will be deducted from the final cost of the event.
Contact Carol directly for a chat or more information and availability: T +33 (0)5 53 91 19 92 M+33 (0)6 95 05 13 02 firstname.lastname@example.org